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Photography for Beginners: Pt 6: The Exposure Triangle

  • Writer: Blue Jay
    Blue Jay
  • Oct 16, 2023
  • 3 min read

Updated: Nov 8, 2023


Photography for beginners part 6 the exposure triangle
BlueJayPhotosNThings.com

Previously, we discussed the 3 pillars of the exposure triangle (also known as the photographic triangle): ISO, shutter speed, and aperture. Now that we understand what those three settings are on their own and we've had a chance to play around with them, we're going to go in-depth about how they all affect each other and how to get the perfect exposure for your photos. These settings have a direct impact on the final image and can be adjusted to achieve the desired creative and technical results.



Just as a reminder, let's quickly recap ISO, shutter speed, and aperture:


  • ISO: Your camera's sensitivity to light

  • Shutter Speed: How long the camera's sensor is exposed to light

  • Aperture: The size of the opening in the camera's lens that allows light to enter


How ISO, Shutter Speed, and Aperture Interact in the Exposure Triangle


ISO and Aperture: Increasing ISO can compensate for a smaller aperture, allowing you to maintain a proper exposure in low light. However, higher ISO may introduce noise.


Shutter Speed and ISO: If you increase the shutter speed to freeze motion, you might need to raise the ISO to maintain a balanced exposure, especially in low light.


Aperture and Shutter Speed: If you want to shoot with a faster shutter speed, you can make the aperture larger to make up for the lack of time.


The exposure triangle
The Exposure Triangle - BlueJay

This list helps give you a better idea of how to achieve what you're looking for. Click each one to view the details. I made it this way so that you can have the ones you want to use open and easy to access in a pinch when needed.


1) High ISO, Narrow Aperture, Fast Shutter Speed

For freezing fast-moving subjects with a deep depth of field in low-light conditions.


ISO can help low light but may add grain to the photo.


You may choose this setting if you prioritize freezing action over minimizing noise.

2) High ISO, Narrow Aperture, Slow Shutter Speed

For a well-exposed photo with a deep depth of field in low-light conditions.


Risks blurriness due to the slow shutter speed.


Use with a tripod or image stabilization to prevent blur.

3) High ISO, Wide Aperture, Fast Shutter Speed

For fast-moving subjects with a shallow depth of field in low light.


High ISO might add grain.


Use when you need both action freezing and some background blur.

4) High ISO, Wide Aperture, Slow Shutter Speed

For a blurred photo with a shallow depth of field


Risks overexposure in bright light.


It's not typically used in practice due to the risk of overexposure.

5) Low ISO, Narrow Aperture, Fast Shutter Speed

For fast moving subjects with a deep depth of field in well-lit conditions.


Doesn't add grain.


It's a standard choice for well-lit scenes.

6) Low ISO, Narrow Aperture, Slow Shutter Speed

For a well-exposed photo with a deep depth of field.


May require a tripod if motion blur is not desired.


It's suitable for well-lit scenes.

7) Low ISO, Wide Aperture, Fast Shutter Speed

For fast moving subjects with a shallow depth of field in well-lit conditions.


Risks underexposure if there's not enough available light.

8) Low ISO, Wide Aperture, Slow Shutter Speed

For a blurred photo with a shallow depth of field in well-lit conditions.


Risks underexposure in certain situations.


Typically used when motion blur is wanted in well-lit conditions.


Remember that the "perfect" settings depend on your creative intent and the specific shooting conditions, so don't hesitate to experiment to achieve the desired results.


A photo that has an interesting balance in the exposure triangle
Photo by ffstop on Unsplash

What is perfect exposure?


A photo with good exposure typically has well-balanced lighting, with details in both highlights and shadows. Overexposed images are too bright, with blown-out highlights, while underexposed images lack detail in the shadows.


  • Use a light meter or the camera's built-in metering system to gauge the exposure.

  • Adjust ISO, aperture, and shutter speed until the meter indicates proper exposure (often at "0" on the meter).


Getting the best exposure with different types of cameras:


  • Smartphone Camera: Smartphone cameras have automatic modes that handle exposure settings for you. To optimize exposure manually, tap on the area of the frame where you want to set the exposure, and the camera will adjust settings accordingly.


  • Point and Shoots: These cameras often have semi-automatic modes (e.g., aperture priority, shutter priority) that allow you to control one setting while the camera adjusts the others automatically. Consult your camera's manual for guidance.


  • DSLR and Mirrorless: These offer full manual control, allowing you to adjust ISO, aperture, and shutter speed independently (see previous 3 posts for more info). Use the camera's built-in light meter or an external light meter for precise exposure.


A photo of a light meter for photography
Photo by billyfreeman on Unsplash

How to use the light meter on DSLR and Mirrorless cameras:


  • In the Viewfinder:

    • Look through the viewfinder and half-press the shutter button to activate the camera's metering system.

    • You'll often see a scale with a pointer or a series of bars on the bottom or side of the viewfinder. This is the light meter.

    • Adjust your camera's settings (ISO, aperture, and shutter speed) until the pointer or bars align with a central marker or "0." This indicates proper exposure.

    • If the pointer is to the left of "0," it means the image is underexposed (too dark), and you may need to open the aperture, slow down the shutter speed, or increase the ISO.

    • If the pointer is to the right of "0," it means the image is overexposed (too bright), and you may need to close the aperture, increase the shutter speed, or lower the ISO.


  • On the LCD Screen:

    • When you review your image on the camera's LCD screen, you can often access a histogram or exposure information.

    • The histogram is a graph that represents the distribution of brightness levels in your image. It can help you assess exposure and ensure that you're not losing detail in highlights or shadows. You don't want the graph to look lop-sided.

    • The exposure information may include settings like ISO, aperture, and shutter speed, as well as a visual representation of the light meter.


With these tips, you should be shooting photos with perfect exposure in no time! Mastering all of these techniques might seem overwhelming at first, but breaking it up into bite-sized pieces and practicing will make it second-nature eventually.

Your Homework

Try shooting at least one photo with each of the 8 combinations of ISO, shutter speed and aperture settings and pick which combination would suit the majority of the photographs you want to take based off your style.


What type of photos suits your style best?

  • Photos with a deep DOF

  • Photos with a shallow DOF

  • Stylistically blurry photos with a deep DOF

  • Stylistically blurry photos with a shallow DOF


On the next post, we're going to move onto another fundamental part of good photography: white balance.



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